Days to Maturity: Approximately 60-70 days from transplant to first harvest (green stage; longer, often 75-85 days, for full color change to red).
Sun Needs: Full sun with at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily—critical for good fruit size, sweetness, color development, and yields in Utah's intense summer light.
Season Type: Warm-season crop; frost-sensitive—transplant only after soil warms to 65°F+ and all frost danger has passed (late May to early June in the Salt Lake City area).
Plant Habit & Support: Upright, bushy plants grow 18-30 inches tall and 18-24 inches wide; light staking or caging is recommended for heavy fruit loads to prevent branches from bending—space 18-24 inches apart for airflow.
Other Notes: Good disease resistance (often to tobacco mosaic virus); monitor for aphids, spider mites, blossom-end rot, or sunscald—consistent moisture and organic mulch (like straw or compost) help prevent common issues; prolific with attractive color stages that make it visually appealing in the garden.
Best Planting Method: Transplant when nights stay above 55°F and soil is warm. Space plants 18-24 inches apart in rows or beds; bury stems slightly deeper if leggy to encourage strong roots. Amend soil with compost for fertility and excellent drainage—raised beds are highly recommended in heavier or alkaline Utah soils to improve root health and avoid rot. Organic mulch (such as straw, compost, or grass clippings) around plants conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and moderates soil temperature.
Watering Needs: Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged (about 1-1.5 inches per week), with deeper watering during flowering and fruit swell—drip irrigation is ideal in dry Utah air to keep foliage dry and reduce disease risk. Avoid drought stress or irregular watering, which can cause blossom drop, cracking, or blossom-end rot; mulch helps maintain even moisture, and containers may need more frequent checks in hot weather.
Fertilization Needs: Incorporate compost or balanced slow-release fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) at planting. Side-dress with a higher-phosphorus/potassium formula (like 5-10-10) at transplant and again when flowering/fruit set begins to promote strong fruit over excess foliage. Peppers are moderate feeders—avoid high nitrogen late in the season to prevent lots of leaves but fewer or smaller peppers; organic options like compost tea support steady growth. Harvest at any stage—cream/yellow for mildest sweetness, orange for richer flavor, or red for peak sweetness—cut fruits with pruners to avoid damaging plants and encourage more production. It's great for containers.