Days to Maturity: Approximately 75-80 days from transplant to first harvest (often 78 days typical).
Sun Needs: Full sun with at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily—vital for fruit size, rich flavor, deep purple color development, and ripening in Utah's intense summer light.
Season Type: Warm-season crop; very frost-sensitive—transplant only after soil warms to 65°F+ and all frost danger has passed (late May to early June in the Salt Lake City area).
Plant Habit & Support: Indeterminate, regular-leaf vining plants grow 5-7 feet tall; strong staking, caging, or trellising is essential to support heavy fruits and prevent sprawling—prune to 2-3 main stems for better airflow and manageability.
Other Notes: Bred for better crack resistance and fewer blemishes than its heirloom parents, but consistent watering still matters in Utah's variable conditions; monitor for aphids, hornworms, blossom-end rot, or fungal issues; organic mulch (like straw or compost) helps retain moisture and reduce soil splash.
Best Planting Method: Transplant when nights stay above 55°F and soil is warm. Space plants 18-36 inches apart in rows or beds; bury stems deeply (up to the first set of true leaves) to encourage strong roots. Amend soil with compost for fertility, drainage, and nutrient retention—raised beds are highly recommended in heavier or alkaline Utah soils to improve root health and prevent issues. Organic mulch (such as straw, compost, or grass clippings) around plants conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and moderates soil temperature.
Watering Needs: Provide consistent, deep watering (1-2 inches per week) to keep soil evenly moist without sogginess—especially critical during fruit set and enlargement to minimize cracking or blossom-end rot; drip irrigation is ideal in dry Utah air to keep foliage dry and reduce disease. Avoid fluctuations—mulch significantly aids steady moisture, and containers may need more frequent checks.
Fertilization Needs: Incorporate compost or balanced slow-release fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) at planting. Side-dress with a higher-phosphorus/potassium formula (like 5-10-10) at transplant and again when flowering/fruit set begins to support fruit development over excess foliage. Tomatoes are heavy feeders—avoid high nitrogen late in the season to prevent leafy growth at the expense of fruit; organic options like compost tea provide steady nutrients. Harvest when fruits reach full size and develop their mature purple coloring but are still firm—cut with pruners to avoid damage, and pick regularly to keep the vines producing.
No published disease resistance information is available for this variety. Crop rotation, good spacing for airflow, and watering at the base of the plant are still the best ways to keep it healthy.