Days to Maturity: Approximately 70-75 days from transplant to green harvest (longer for full red ripening, up to 80+ days in cooler conditions).
Sun Needs: Full sun with at least 6-8 hours (preferably more) of direct sunlight daily—essential for large fruit size, sweetness, and good yields in Utah's sunny climate.
Season Type: Warm-season crop; highly frost-sensitive—transplant only after soil warms to 65°F+ and all danger of frost has passed (late May to early June in the Salt Lake City area).
Plant Habit & Support: Tall, vigorous plants reach 24-48 inches or more with a bushy spread; staking or caging is strongly recommended as heavy fruits can cause branches to bend or break, especially with high yields.
Other Notes: Some tolerance to tobacco mosaic virus; monitor for common Utah pepper issues like aphids, spider mites, blossom-end rot (from inconsistent watering), or sunscald—good airflow and mulch help. Great for fresh market sales due to impressive size and appeal.
Best Planting Method: Transplant when nights stay above 55°F and soil is warm; space plants 18-24 inches apart in rows or beds (or 24-36 inches for larger growth). Amend soil with compost for fertility and drainage—raised beds are ideal in heavier or alkaline Utah soils. Black plastic mulch can help warm soil, retain moisture, and reduce weeds.
Watering Needs: Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged (about 1-1.5 inches per week), with deeper watering during flowering and fruit swell—drip irrigation works best to avoid wetting foliage and reduce disease risk in dry air. Allow the top inch to dry slightly between waterings, but avoid drought stress which causes blossom drop or smaller fruits; consistent moisture prevents cracking and blossom-end rot. Taper off slightly as fruits ripen to enhance sweetness.
Fertilization Needs: Incorporate compost or balanced slow-release fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) at planting. Side-dress with a higher-phosphorus/potassium mix (like 5-10-10) at transplant and again when flowering/fruit set begins to promote strong fruit development over excess foliage. Peppers are moderate feeders—too much nitrogen leads to lots of leaves but fewer or smaller peppers. Harvest green for firmer texture and higher early yields, or wait for red for maximum sweetness; cut fruits with pruners to avoid damaging plants and encourage continued production.